Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Travel Reading

Almost nothing makes me happier while traveling than reading books that pertain somehow to the place I am visiting. Before I left, I sat down and did some research about what I wanted to read where. Here's what I've been reading on this trip:





Enchanted April 
by Elizabeth Von Arnim

This is a well known story of 4 British women who rent a villa in Italy. Of course they discover much about themselves, etc, but the true gems of this book are the lush descriptions of Italian gardens and food. A great book for me, as I had just left the cold Minnesota winter behind, and I was really relishing in seeing green spaces again. And of course, eating pasta. :-)







A Room with a View 
by E. M. Forester

More inhibited, class-obsessed English people who are liberated by a stint in Tuscany, lol! I found this book would put me to sleep instantly for the first half, then I couldn't put it down during the second - so there you go. Some brilliantly eloquent passages and memorable characters, but I'd say you have to be just the right mood for this book.







Italian Hours 
by Henry James

I originally got this book with the intention of reading James' memoirs of his time in Italy from front to back. However, as you may expect from James, it is quite wordy and after a while you can find yourself feeling quite swamped - and so I have found it much more pleasant to use the section headings and index to find the relevant passages and read them as a I travel to those places myself. Since it was not written chronologically in the first place and is really a collection of essays and observations which was later compiled, this works well. In the end I don't know that I can say that I have read every single page, but I can say it was a delightful companion to me throughout our travels in Italy.





The White Castle 
by Orhan Pamuk

The perfect cross-over novel, as we passed from Italy to Turkey. This book (by the award winning Orhan Pamuk, Turkey's most famous writer) features two men - one Venetian and one Istanbulite - who are spitting images of each other physically and become entangled in a complicated and tumultuous relationship that blurs the lines of their identities, and respective roles - one is a slave, the other his master. The plot twists and turns as their futures and even their pasts become intricately linked. 





Birds Without Wings 
by Louis de Benieres

This was a book I had never heard of, but was recommended to me by a friend whose taste in books I highly respect (even though we sometimes disagree!). Descriptions of it don't do it justice, as it is not a simple story of a person, or a couple, or even a family. It is the story of country or two, of religions, and ethnicities, of tolerance, of hate and division. It is a story that spans generations, and wars, devastation and unlikely reunions. It is historical and true, and other times completely fantastical and comical. An epic piece of writing. Probably the best read I've had all year. 






The Bastard of Istanbul 
by Elif Shafak

Complete and utter disappointment. I was intrigued because of the attention this book got in the press, and I had listened to a TED talk by this author and found her interesting. The story followed the lives of two girls in mirror-image families, one Armenian and the other Turkish. A course of events follows in which they meet and become friends etc and etc... Need I go on?








Sweet Waters: An Istanbul Adventure 
by Harold Nicolson

Written by a former diplomat to Turkey, this story takes place in early 20th century Istanbul, and it really does harken to the time, with stunning descriptions of the Bosphorous and various neighbourhoods around town. It is said to mirror Nicolson's own experience living in Constantinople in a time of war - in fact, he apparently lived in Cihangir, where we were living as well. It was not a page-turner, despite being lauded as a "thriller" in some reviews, but it was pleasant enough.





Austerlitz 
by W. G. Sebald

This leads us to the final book of our travels - after discovering that the closest major train station to our apartment in Paris was L'Austerlitz, Ozayr remembered this book, and I hurried through Sweet Waters on the plane, in order to begin this book during our short stay in France. So far, very cleverly written and architectural... but not finished. The last remaining book of my reading list. I am savouring it :-)



Thursday, May 22, 2014

Now for quelque chose completely different

We have done a complete switch from our regular programming of slow travel and leisurely exploration - we are now in Paris doing a crazy, mad whirlwind tour of the Big Sights, museums and monuments. Maymuna has always sort of had a thing for Paris, and so we had the opportunity to extend our layover here (by about 72 hours) and so we did. We bought her a guidebook and told her to start laying out plans.


We did let her know that time would be pretty scarce, and that day trips would have to be considered carefully. I held my breath, as I knew that she would soon discover that EuroDisney is in France, but in the end she decided that to make the best of being in Paris we should go to Versailles instead. We were happy with her decision. :-)

We flew here from Istanbul on Tuesday morning, early, and hit the ground running with a Seine Tour from the Pont Neuf that afternoon, as well as some croissants, baguettes and cheese. The following two days covered Versailles, the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Musee d'Orsay, Jardin de Tuilleries, Panthéon, Notre Dame AND the nighttime light show at the Eiffel Tower (at 11 o'clock at night to boot!).

Here are some pictures of our tour de force...

La Seine

Versailles is very fancy

Riding a golf cart around the gardens of Versailles 
Louvre

Mona Lisa

Islamic Arts at the Louvre - seeing what we just lived with for 3 months lol

Eiffel Tower

A pretty happy girl

Notre Dame

Locks on the bridge :-)

Panthéon

Panthéon interior

Foucault's Pendulum under restoration. These cuties are here instead.

Jardins des Tuilleries

Musée d'Orsay

Arc de Triomphe

The view from the top



Monday, May 19, 2014

Farewells

The students have left one by one. Some left right after final reviews. Others are traveling in Europe. The last student that remains in Istanbul left this weekend. Before they went, they gave a gift to Ozayr of a small sketchbook in which they had all written messages for him. A very thoughtful gift. It is really about the students, after all. I know it's a great opportunity and we grab at any chance to be here in this amazing city, but really it is for the students. Ozayr believes so passionately in study abroad and that this is the best place for young people to discover the diversity of the world and learn in an entirely new way. His students - whether they know it or not - are very lucky to have him here. He really has their growth and education in mind, every single day.






It's fun to read some of the final posts from the students on their blog now that they are home again. Check it out here:  http://umnistanbulstudyabroad.com/

Friday, May 16, 2014

Rahmi M. Koç Transport Museum

For the last two visits to Turkey, I have tried to visit the Rahmi Koç Transport Museum and somehow every time I made plans to do so, they FAILED. Well, today didn't look like it was going to work out, since Ozayr was running around getting stuff sort out and I was trying to get things in the apartment ready to go... but we pretty much put everything aside around lunchtime and got on the Golden Horn ferry up to Hasköy. The museum did not disappoint!

There were lots of interesting things to see, from bicycles to planes to street cars. There were lots of great stories too, like the one about the U.S. Airforce Starfighter plane that crashed off Turkey's Mediterranean coast in WWII, and whose crew was rescued by Turkish locals who swam out to help them.

It was a beautiful day for taking pictures - enjoy!



















Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Rainbow Stairs

Rainbow-painted stairs have popped up all over our neighbourhood since we were last here. You might enjoy this article on how it all started:

The Heartwarming Story Behind Turkey's Rainbow Staircase

Here are a few websites with more pictures of rainbow staircases in Turkey:

Following the Painted Rainbows
Painting as Protest


The other day we took our own photo to remember them by:



Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Miscellaneous

Things are winding down here in our little corner of the world. Ozayr's undergraduate students have almost all left. A few graduate students from the Cities on Water program remain. I am left wondering what to do with my last few days in town.

Lately we have been hanging out with these guys:



And then, while showing them around our trusted vendors at the Grand Bazaar, we accidentally bought this from these guys


All our last minute shopping is getting done - how nice are these prints?



The tulips were here - and they were staggering in number and beauty. On Children's Day in Istanbul this was Gulhane Park:





A week ago two kittens showed up on the roof of the building across from ours:


Worried that they were trapped up there we started throwing food for them across the passageway. We have since seen them safely on the ground, but they still seem to show up on the roof at dinnertime and the facade of the building is a bit stained with oily tuna marks.....

Ozayr went to a Galatasaray/Fenerbahce soccer game - and survived. I found this link under "football hooliganism" on wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Football_hooliganism#Turkey


His pro-Galatasaray hosts had this shirt made for him, even though he is a firm Besiktas team supporter :-)

The children are busy as always, wandering the streets of Ole 'Stamboul and doing what kids do best:




A week from today we will be (inshallah) landing in Paris, where we have scheduled a layover of a few days to show the girls the sights. Maymuna has wanted to go to Paris for years, being a huge Tour de France fan. There was a lot of excitement here last week, when the Tour of Turkey passed through and she got to see some of her favourite riders:


We are lucky to get to hang out with lots of great people here:






So we're looking forward to doing more of that.

And staring at this: 





And so our last week begins. I am off to make the most of it! Will post soon! xo